frequently asked questions

• How do I protect my roses for winter?
  First, prune each plant only enough to prevent the plant from whipping about in the wind. Then mound the base with fresh, loose soil or compost that drains well to a height of about 6 inches. Use leaves, mulch or straw to cover. If you have had a persistant problem with insects, you may want to spray your rose plants with an anti-desiccant dormant spray. (For tree roses, call or visit our garden center for information.)
• My evergreens are brown on the inside branches, are they dying?
  In general, evergreens hold their needles for 1 or 2 seasons dropping their older needles in late summer and early fall leaving those that were produced in Spring and Summer. The dead needles can be removed easily by shaking or brushing the branches.
• Should I fertilize my plants in the Fall?
  Not necessarily. Heavy early Fall fertilizing with chemical fertilizers is not recommended because it may encourage new growth late in the season; this growth is easily damaged by winter weather.
• What should I do when bringing my house plant in for the winter?
  Treat your plant with a systemic insecticide 2 weeks before bringing it inside. The systemic insecticide is absorbed into a plant's system, making the plant toxic to pests. The dry graunule form of some systemic insecticides often contain nutrients as well as insecticides so that one application serves a number of purposes.
• When should I re-pot my plants?
  About 2 years after purchasing your potted plant, you will want to re-pot it. Spring is the best time to re-pot so that the roots will have plenty of time to become established before the onset of the resting season.
• When should I prune my flowering spring shrubs and ornamentals?
  Spring flowering shrubs and ornamentals start producing flower buds shortly after the 4th of July. Prune these shrubs soon after they bloom as needed. This list includes: Azaleas, Forsythia, Quince, Mock Orange, Crabapples, Rhododendron, Lilacs, Flowering Almond, Dogwoods and Ornamental Cherry.
• What is dormant oil spray?
  It disrupts the life cycle of insects by preventing their eggs from hatching. It is used when temperatures rise to 40° or more, for 3 consecutive days.
• There are insects on my plants, what should I do?
  Call Barnes Nursery to come out and identify the offending insect and recommend an insecticide.
• When is the best time to plant a new lawn?
  September is the perfect time for both new lawns and to re-seed thin or bare areas on existing lawns.
• What is the best lawn mower setting for my lawn?
  Don’t cut your grass too short. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, it looks better, and it is less likely to have weeds; particularly crabgrass. Don’t remove any more than one third of the grass leaf. If your lawn gets away from you don’t be tempted to cut too much. Instead, mow every few days cutting off 1/3 each time until you are caught up. Don’t mow when it’s wet. When mowing only a third with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. By the way, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.
• Will mowing in a different direction help my lawn?
  Yes, changing direction each time you mow ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.
• Why isn’t my newly seeded lawn coming in?
  There may be several reasons. Improper watering is the single largest cause of failure of newly seeded lawns. For seeds to germinate evenly, the top layer of soil must stay moist-not wet. After planting, soak the soil to a 6” depth. Then, sprinkle a newly seeded lawn in the morning until the top ¼ inch of soil is moist. Continue watering regularly until your new lawn is established. Remember, the top layer of soil must not dry out, thus more frequent watering is necessary if the weather is hot and/or windy. Use a fine spray to minimize soil movement or seed washing. Avoid standing water. The length of time for establishing your lawn depends on grass type, germination rate, growth rate, weather and other variables. Other factors for a slow growing lawn may be that seeds were planted at the wrong time of year, old seed was used, seeds were planted too deeply or the soil was unprepared.
• When and how do I fertilize my new lawn?
  Fertilize with a seed starter formula, or a general purpose formula that is not high in nitrogen. Starter fertilizer encourages root development. Too much nitrogen can burn new shoots and force blade growth without enough root support.
• What should I do about weeds in my newly seeded lawn?
  Ignore them. No weed treatments of any kind should be applied to newly seeded lawns unless it is recommended as safe on the label. Broadleaf weed control may be applied after the lawn has been mowed three times and is properly established.
• When should I mow my new lawn?
  While newly seeded lawns are more delicate, the soil is often softer and the roots are not as deeply rooted, mowing a young lawn helps the plants to thicken. Mow, even if the lawn is very thin, when the length of the grass plants appears to need mowing! Be sure to have mower blades sharpened regularly.
• How often should I water my established lawn?
  Proper watering can mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a spotty, unattractive lawn. Telling you how much and how often to water is impossible due to the many variables that exist. However, here are some basic guidelines: Water your lawn when it needs it. That is when the soil begins to dry and before the grass wilts. Morning waterings are the most beneficial. Watering in the evening or at night is not recommended as it may promote disease. To keep lawn roots growing, soil must be moist to a depth of 6-8 inches.
• How and why should I fertilize my established lawn?
  Lawns require more fertilizer than landscape plants. Complete fertilizers contain the three basic nutrients of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Commercially packaged lawn fertilizers will have different percentages, but will always list these percentages in the same order: NITROGEN (N), PHOSPHOROUS (P), POTASSIUM (K)…(N-P-K)
• How do I cut back my Mums?
  Established mums should be cut back by half their size between mid-June and mid-July. This allows them to bush out and produce better bloom.
• There is a really ugly mold in my mulch, what is it?
  It may be what is commonly known as, “dog barf mold”. You need to rake your mulch lightly to “fluff” it. By fluffing your mulch it dissipates the spores and helps to eliminate it.
• How much do I water my landscape plants?
  Water the root zone completely, and then allow the soil to dry slightly. Watering too much can cut off air to the roots, growth stops and plants die. Watering too lightly or not frequently enough, the moisture will not move far enough into the soil. Roots grow where moisture, nutrients and air are available. Shallow rooted plants cannot tap deeper water reserves in droughts and heat, thus they cannot survive. To tell if you are watering thoroughly, using a shovel or trowel, look underground, through the top 4-6 inches of soil to be sure water is moving to the root zone. WATER WELL, AND LEARN HOW LONG IT TAKES YOUR SOIL TYPE TO DRY SLIGHTLY BETWEEN WATERINGS.
• What kind of irrigation equipment do I need?
  Various kinds of irrigation equipment can be used to water plants. At planting time, just a hose with slow running water may be adequate. A water breaker could be used on the end of the hose, resulting in a greater volume of water being applied without too much force, preventing excessive runoff. Sprinkler systems of many kinds are available and are particularly valuable when watering plants after they have been planted. The main purpose of the sprinkler is to apply water slowly so less is lost and a thorough job of soaking the soil around the plants is accomplished. For deep watering of shrubs and trees, water wands or “root feeders” that attach to a garden hose are efficient. The water is placed around the roots so little is wasted through runoff. Regardless of what is used for watering, the system must provide water in such a way that it soaks into the soil thoroughly from ground level to the bottom of the ball of soil or planting hole.
• When is the best time of day to water?
  Anytime of the day is better than not watering at all. However, you can reduce plant diseases and water loss from evaporation by watering early in the morning when sun and wind are low. Leaves that stay damp during the night are more apt to be attacked by fungus. By watering early, you give plants a chance to dry before night.
• How do I water balled and burlapped or container grown trees?
  Watering is done essentially the same way as for other plant material. It is important to wet the soil in the planting hole as well as the ball of soil around the roots. REMEMBER, when watering, water well, slowly soaking the ball and soil around it. DO NOT OVERWATER! A trickling hose at the root zone is a great way to water. Move it around the tree to water evenly. Allow the ball to dry slightly before watering again.
• How do I plant “container” grown trees and shrubs?
  Shrubs and trees are usually sold either potted in containers, or balled and burlapped (B&B). Dig the hole as deep as the container and almost two times wider than the container. Fill the hole with water and allow the hole to drain before planting. At the time of planting be sure the soil in the container is moist enough to hold the root ball together. REMOVE THE CONTAINER whether it is metal, plastic, peat, composition, fiber or paper. (B&B plants should be planted with the burlap on the root ball unless the burlap is plastic.) If the roots have penetrated a peat or paper container and cannot be removed, holes should be punched in the bottom. Remove the plant from the container by turning the container upside down, hold the trunk or stem in place with one hand and knock the side of the container against a hard surface. Roots and soil should come out in one unit. If this does not work, cut away the pot. It is better to waste the pot than break up the root ball. Keep the root ball intact. Set the root ball into the hole with the soil line of the tree slightly higher than the surrounding soil to allow for settling.
• What should I back-fill my new plant and hole with?
  The soil to be placed in the hole around the root ball should provide the best possible conditions for new root growth. Topsoil alone is usually not sufficient! Soil should be amended with organic matter such as compost or peat moss. The rule of thumb is to make a mixture consisting of 75-80% soil removed from hole and 20-30% compost or peat moss. If the soil being planted in is heavy clay, adding sand would help with drainage; 40% clay soil, 40% sand, 20% organic matter. If your soil is very sandy, add additional organic matter to help retain moisture. Be certain that any organic soil amendment is fully composted or stable. Be certain to mix all of the soil ingredients together well before using. Either throughout the process or when the hole is almost level with the soil line, water slowly even if it is raining. Slightly mound up with more soil to cover all roots. The planting area soil level should be about an inch above the surrounding area.
• How do I know which fertilizer to use on my landscape plants?
  If you are installing plants, use a starter fertilizer when planting. “Upstart” by Ortho®, or low nitrogen fertilizer may be used. If you are fertilizing established landscape plants, look at the label on the fertilizer. All fertilizer labels indicate percentages of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium (N-P-K) and always in this order. Nitrogen develops leafy growth while Phosphorous and Potassium develop root, flower and fruiting. Plants respond to the fertilizer based on the proportional amounts. Soil testing is the best way to determine what your soil specifically needs.
• How do I get my soil tested?
  Here is a link to Ohio State University’s Ohio Line web site that explains how to collect a sample and where to send it: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1132.html
• When do I fertilize my plants?
  Plants need nitrogen when they are growing most rapidly, thus the heaviest application should be made in the spring. Fertilizer is often applied to trees and shrubs in the fall when top growth slows. Root growth continues through the winter and is aided by this practice.
• Do I need special fertilizer for my Rhododendron?
  There is a special group of acid loving plants including rhododendron, azalea, dogwood, holly, hydrangea, magnolia, pyracantha, fern and viburnum. Special fertilizer formulas are designed for these plants that thrive in acid soils. Application should be made as soon as growth begins in the spring (mid-March to early April). Do not fertilize just preceding bloom.

Please call us at Barnes Nursery if you have questions! We are here to help you.